Spring 2020 Registration is open

I hadn’t forgotten that Spring 2020 registration was supposed to open before now. Between “improvements” to the software used to run this site, policy changes that took time to iron out, and compelling changes we’ll make to our process moving forward (required pre-testing), registration was delayed. Thanks for being so patient. Moving on.

The project

ABQFI, a not for profit organization, trains people interested in sewn product manufacturing by manufacturing items that are donated to charity- cut and sewn from start to finish. Apparel Manufacturing Boot Camp is held twice a year, Spring and Fall. Each event is comprised of two separate sessions. The first is a smaller pre-production event that is used to test and plan for the production event, as well as to train coaches. The production event takes place three months later. Since Fall of 2015, we’ve manufactured hundreds of lined warm winter coats, dresses for senior citizens, duffle bags used for refugee resettlement, and over a thousand products used in animal rescue.

Raquel (L), Lisa (C) and Christian(R). Timing Lisa during pre-pro F2019.

The place:

410 Old Coors Dr SW, Albuquerque NM 87121 USA -a sewing factory owned by Apparel Technical Services. Designed as a model facility, it is equipped with feed rail and servo technology through out. It also may be the only sewing factory in the world that is 100% solar powered. 

Our MVPs are very special. They get tiaras!

The people: 

Volunteers come from all over the world but mostly the Americas. As no experience is required, volunteer skills range from none to hobby sewing, as well as experienced returning attendees. Volunteers are selected following the 2 week registration period after which a lottery is conducted. Those winning a coveted slot are required to complete advance preparation. In addition, as ABQFI has no grants or funding, our volunteers contribute a fee to cover the cost of materials and a portion of the operational costs to host the event.

The product for Spring 2020:

We are making lined wool children’s coats with a few design changes from Fall 2019. Instead of a two-piece front with inset pockets, we’re making a one piece front with a double welt pocket. As in the past, the winter coats will be donated to children in New Mexico, USA. 

Christian, servicing machines at ABQFI F2019

The process: 

In addition to the TWI practices we adopted previously, for Spring 2020 we’re implementing a highly unusual sewing process; one that is largely unknown in today’s US factories -essentially templates on steroids. I’ve written about template usage in The Entrepreneur’s Guide to Sewn Product Manufacturing and on the Fashion-Incubator website, and we’ve even used them in boot camp previously but not to this extent. This is an old school sewing method that’s been abandoned for so long that it’s practically forgotten. It has become a hot “new” sewing technology in Asian factories but outside of automated machines, remains completely unknown in the US. 

The problem:

As Apparel Manufacturing Boot Camp has become popular and more widely known, we’re attracting applicants who know so little that they don’t understand the importance of advance preparation. As one returning attendee said “a lot of new participants don’t take the reading list seriously. They should. Time and again participants aren’t familiar with concepts that are covered in the reading list and are needed during the course of the weekend.” Accordingly, new attendees will need to pass a quiz based on the reading six weeks before the start date. The content does matter; one won’t be able to fake it. At worst, failure to prepare could cause injury to self and others. One may also irreparably damage equipment and or ruin coats that poor families were depending on. These families are so poor they don’t have indoor plumbing or electricity -this is why we can no longer risk the ruining of product if one doesn’t make the time to prepare.  

{{{Jen}}}} (L) ,the Alaskan Canadian with Ellen. Ellen is in a class of her own -forget Lion/Tiger/Bear- she’s a Dragon!

Dates & Details: 

REGISTRATION: Nov 3, 2019 – through Nov 17, 2019

PRE-PRODUCTION: January 17-20, 2020 (Friday through Monday)
Signing up for pre-production is a commitment to attend the production event as well. You are automatically registered for production when signing up for pre-production. 
8:00 AM -5:00 PM
Slots: 10
Fee: $550 (includes production)

PRODUCTION: March 20-23, 2020 (Friday through Monday)*
Friday March 20, 7:00 AM -5:00 PM
Saturday-Monday March 21-23: 7:30 AM -5:00 PM
Slots: 25 (includes the 10 from pre-production)
Fee: $350
*One can arrive earlier by prior arrangement. Details to follow.

It was Suzanne’s birthday! She didn’t even tell us; she’d won MVP before we knew. Her sweetie (R).

Pre-Production Team will:

  • Test and troubleshoot the JBS’ (TWI: job breakdown sheets) and template system.
  • Familiarize themselves with the needs and fitting attributes of our “customer”.
  • Test each step of the operation assemblies and critique its methods. 
  • Complete at least one “sew-by” sample.
  • Complete 2 sets of work instructions for each assembly step that needs one.
  • Learn basic principles of industrial engineering to develop key production management skills . Specifically, the organization of assemblies, the number and flow of operations, sewing time per operation, the limitations of bottlenecks and how to resolve them, and the type of equipment, tools, and support materials needed for each process.
  • Learn the difference between QC and QA; assist in the development of QA procedures with provided tolerances.
  • Analyze the sewing skills we need to train for, and finalize a plan to manage the challenges of an unknown workforce.
  • Become familiar with cut order planning, yield calculation, master scheduling and cost limitations.
  • Supervisory skills are introduced as some pre-production attendees will assist in training and managing functions in cutting, bundling, fusing, sewing and inspection. 
The loyal pre-production crew.

Production activities:

Everything, from soup to nuts.  Or almost everything; cutting is the one exception. Volunteers will staff all other positions (but not limited to) spreading fabric, notching, sorting and expediting for shade marking then fusing. Shade marking, fusing, sorting and bundling. Assisting in feeding the sewing line; working the sewing line, incoming inspection (QA), cleaning, setting up for meals (lunch for production is catered), washing dishes, taking out the trash etc. Attending to social media is also an available position.

Nancy, cheerfully transcribes data with no complaints. PP F2019

Registration requirements: 

No previous experience is required. However, because we need an accurate picture of applicants to plan staffing and training resources, you’ll need to fill out the application with care. 

Your experience or lack of it will not affect your acceptance. However, overstating your experience and qualifications during the registration process WILL count against you. Read and respond to the questions on the registration form very carefully to make sure your responses don’t lend the impression of exaggeration. 

Qualifications are another story. If you win a slot in the lottery, you agree to become qualified six weeks before arriving, and to demonstrate your qualifications by passing a quiz.  To qualify, you agree to do the assigned work (mostly reading, some videos, extra points for completing a tutorial). The ABQFI team spends countless hours preparing for this event, and provide these resources without profit to ensure that a participant having never worked in a manufacturing facility before, can still contribute in a meaningful way. During previous boot camps, the people who did not have fulfilling jobs were people who did not do the homework. 

Sara, la estimada Salvadorena. Ojalá que vuelvas pronto.

Registration Lottery:

We use a lottery system to select participants since past boot camps have filled so quickly (in less than an hour). This year we will have a separate lottery for each level. You might term the levels as “beginner”, “intermediate” and “advanced” but this is very inaccurate. We rank people (based on scoring from the application form) in terms of the coaching resources they will need. Our categories are “Lion”, “Tiger” and “Bear”.  Theoretically, Lions need the most coaching and Bears the least. We hope that a 3 tiered lottery will improve the mix and provide a balanced proportion of each group.
At a past event, not doing a tiered lottery meant that we ended up with 60% Lions with too few Tigers and Bears to coach them -much less had Tigers and Bears available to do the jobs rated for them. And unfortunately, as Lions tend to have the least experience, they were the least likely to understand the value of preparation and did very little. This meant we could not be confident in the safety of participants and remedial training was required. As we didn’t anticipate the need of remedial training or the time needed to do it, actual training and event progress was critically impacted. Still worse, the least prepared were the least likely to have meaningful jobs as we didn’t have time to get them up to par, and they were understandably frustrated. All in all the event was enjoyable and successful but we fell short on our goals.

We’ve had to take a more pragmatic stance on requiring preparation; in fact, the registration form contains questions that can only be answered if one has read the caveats, supplies and safety policies, and accommodations pages. And why would you want to come without knowing those? Definitely read those before signing up. 

Hilary (L) and Maeve (R),taking a break @F2019 ABQFI boot camp.

There is a 2 week period to sign up and then we’ll draw names out of the proverbial hat. Once you’re notified of having gotten in, you’ll need to pay a $50 deposit by the date listed below. If the deposit isn’t paid, we pull the next name on the list. We do not run after people with reminders. We have NO paid staff. This is the ugly truth of it: based on experience we’ve learned that people we have to remind to pay tend to have other issues that we are better off avoiding.. 

On the lottery notification date (November 18, 2019) you will be notified whether you got in or not and for which event (s). Again, if you sign up for pre-production, you are automatically enrolled in, and are required to attend production. I am so tired of getting emails from people who ask if they need to sign up for both that emailing to ask will disqualify a candidate. If one can’t read enough to learn that, they’re not going to prepare in full either. 

There’s only one Justine; Pre-Pro trooper and tester.

Important dates: 

  • November 3-17, 2019; Two week registration period.
  • November 18, 2019: Lottery notification date.
  • November 21, 2019 @ 5PM MST: Deposit due.
  • December 19, 2019: Pre-production fee balance is due
  • December 19, 2019: Pre-production quiz and assignments must be completed.
  • February 13, 2020: Production fee balance is due
  • February 13, 2020: Production quiz and assignments must be completed
  • January 17-20, 2020: Pre-production for S2020
  • March 20-23, 2020: Production S2020

Fees

  • Pre-production: $550
  • Production: $350
  • Catered lunch: $80 (4 days x $20; pre-production doesn’t have catered lunch)

As we have no funding, we charge a nominal fee to cover some of the event expenses. The actual cost to my business (Apparel Technical Services) including planning, equipment, and work stoppage is about $500 per person over and above this fee. As ABQFI is a not for profit organization, your fee, less the cost of food, is tax-deductible in the USA. Our 501(c)3  tax ID appears on your invoice. In this vein, any additional donations or support is greatly appreciated. Many employers offer donation matching so if this applies to you, please think of us. 

The inimitable Jamie Hirano; @F2019 ABQFI boot camp.

The Application:

New registrants: You need to fill out Section 1, 2 & 4, skipping section 3.
Alums: If you’ve attended 2 or more boot camps previously, you can skip many questions by selecting the “Alum” option or writing in “Alum”. You will fill out Section 1, 3 & 4. skipping section 2.

The sections are marked, just a heads up. You can edit your application later if you don’t finish right now. Remember to complete the application by November 17th in order to enter the lottery. 

In sum, registration is officially open!

Keith, carefully tracking IE data. ABQFI Fall 2019 pre-production

Fall 2019 Apparel Manufacturing Boot Camp Registration is Open

Our next event, Fall 2019, we will be making warm winter coats for donation to children in New Mexico. The design will draw inspiration and design elements from Fall 2017, our most popular design. We will be doing it all from pattern grading, spreading, cutting, organization,sewing and finally distribution. Here are the details:

Pre-Production: July 4-7 2019, 8:00 AM -5:00 PM*.
Slots: 10
When you register for pre-production, you are automatically enrolled in production.
*PLEASE NOTE: 8:00 AM start time for pre-production!

Production: August 30-September 2, 2019
August 30th: 7:00 AM – 5:00 PM.
August 31-Sept 2: 7:30 AM -5:00 PM
Slots: 25 (includes the 10 from pre-production)

Location: 410 Old Coors Dr SW, Albuquerque NM 87121
Contact us at (505) 877-1713 or factory AT abqfi DOT.org

Qualifications and experience required: None. That’s right, no experience required. There is no trick to being successful if we’re staffed by people who already have skills and experience. The amazing part of what we do is training unskilled and inexperienced people. We have successfully, and repeatedly trained people who have never sewn in their lives. I can’t say this more simply but your experience or lack of it will not affect your acceptance. However, overstating your experience and qualifications can count against you. Read the questions on the registration form very carefully to make sure your responses don’t lend the impression of exaggeration. We do need an accurate picture of applicants so we can plan staffing and training

Registration by Lottery: Since the boot camps fill so quickly (sometimes less than an hour), we use a lottery system. There is a 2 week period to sign up and then we’ll draw names out of the proverbial hat. Once you’re notified of having gotten in, you’ll need to pay a $50 deposit within 3 days time. If the deposit isn’t paid, we pull the next name on the list. On April 23, 2019, you will be notified whether you got in or not.

These are the tasks that are completed in pre-production. Again, if you sign up for pre-production, you are automatically enrolled in production (I repeat this no less than 3 times in each post and I still get questions about this):

Pre-production: In the first phase July 4-7, 2019, boot campers will:

  • Analyze fitting and dressing challenges for our “customer”.
  • Assist in pattern creation and complete production pattern auditing for each style.
  • Sew mock ups of the proposed style for group critique.
  • Create finished samples.
  • Assist with the creation of an industrial engineering work study to determine the number of operations, sewing time per operation and type of equipment will we need.
  • Analyze the sewing skills we need to train for and finalize a plan to manage the challenges of an unknown workforce.
  • Assist with cut order planning (calculating yields), creating the master schedule to order goods, final costing, and generally learning how to manage production soup to nuts.
  • Finalize the sourcing plan to include the costs and inventory we need to complete the project.
  • Train to be trainers: those attending the design phase will have supervisory or management roles for the production phase over Labor Day (August 30-Sept 2).

FEES:
Pre-production: $500
Deposit due: Friday April 26, 2019
Balance due: Wednesday May 15, 2019
Production: $350
Deposit due: April 26, 2019
Balance due: Monday July 15, 2019
Catered lunch: $80 (4 days x $20)

We charge a nominal fee to cover some of the event expenses (the actual cost to my business including planning, equipment, and work stoppage is about $500 per person over and above this fee). As a charitable organization, your fee, less the cost of food, is tax deductible in the USA (and any additional donation is deeply appreciated). Please note there is no catered lunch option for Pre-Production and that the fee for Pre-Pro includes Production.

In sum, registration is officially open!

Click here to fill out the registration form.

We can’t wait to meet you!

Spring 2019 Apparel Manufacturing Boot Camp Registration is Open

The product: TNR trap covers

In the past, we’ve made coats every Fall, and usually school pants in the Spring. This year we won’t make pants -the reasons for which to be discussed, I’ll drop a link later should it interest someone- but another sewn product that benefits charitable public service organizations. Specifically, we’re making a product used in TNR which stands for Trap Neuter Return, a program of live trapping feral cats to reduce feral cat populations, saving taxpayers millions of dollars. Really. TNR programs save lots of tax payer dollars -did you know that euthanizing one feral cat costs tax payers $350 on average? TNR programs also reduce disease and neighborhood disruption.

Melanie, cutting hook and loop for the TNR covers.

Why this project?

So maybe you don’t like cats and aren’t pumped by the challenges our Spring boot camp offers -but there is much more to this event- we’re doubling down on our production sewing organization. Specifically, our lofty goal is to plan and implement a lean sewing cell. If you’re not sure what that is or why you should be excited about it, read on. But I’m getting ahead of myself, my point is that even if you don’t like cats, you should be involved in this project because nothing has been shown to be more effective at reducing cat populations than TNR.

How TNR traps are used to reduce cat population:

The way it works is that volunteer organizations place baited live traps in known feral colonies. The cats are then collected, neutered or spayed, vaccinated and sometimes chipped, and then returned to the location they were found. Often, that location has a caretaker who feeds and tends to the colony. Over time, without new kittens being born, the cat population diminishes until no or few ferals remain and a neighborhood’s problem and public health concerns, are solved. 

Our part in this effort is to make covers for those traps. Cats won’t readily go into a naked cage and they become distraught (which injures animal control and veterinary staff, also volunteers) but with a trap cover, the cage looks like a box -and cats love boxes. Once the trap is tripped, the cover wraps around the cage which calms the animal. The cover also protects the cat from the elements until the trap is retrieved. Our trap cover design is the only one of its kind, a unique design we developed over 3 years that is literally patenable, the best on the market.

TNR cover, version 7

In fits and starts, we’ve been making these covers over the past three years for a local 501c3 organization called Street Cat Hub (SCH); it is one of the most successful programs in the country. Success can be measured by the reduction of euthanasia that counties and cities pay to provide as well decreased expenditure of taxpayer dollars to do it. For example, here in the City of Albuquerque and due to Street Cat Hub’s efforts, euthanasia dropped to 0. In dollar figures, for just one year (2016), SCH saved taxpayers at least $1.4 million dollars in direct (euthanasia) costs (see this fact sheet from 2013.) Additionally, taxpayers benefit because the Albuquerque Animal Welfare Department (AAWD) budget isn’t being drained by feral cat euthanasia so they had the space and funds to house more friendly cats available for public adoption (feral cats are not adoptable). Lastly, the impact on city workers shouldn’t be overlooked. Turnover was high as the work environment for some consisted of killing cats all day, and they’d sought the job because they loved animals. To tie this all together, the NIH also published results in a study of the effect of our local TNR project.

Despite the success of our local program, there is constant need of the trap covers as they’re misplaced, claimed by other animal organizations or destroyed. Likewise, our local project has undertaken the task of seeding new TNR programs in the state and those programs need covers too. 

Showing us how it’s done!

The scope of Spring 2019 Boot Camp

Returning to what’s in it for you aside from warm fuzzies, not only will we be pressure testing our production system set up, the sewing method organization (details below) but we’ll be doing unprecedented product testing. For example, we’ll conduct and measure wind resistance using anemometers, and water resistance -haven’t figured that part out yet but I’ll get to it once I’ve nailed down wind resistance testing. In fact, so much preparation was required to put this proposal together that it took several weeks -hence our unusually long delay in opening registration. 

Pre-Production Activities
January 25-28, 2019 8:00 AM -5:00 PM

Should you be unaware of how this event works, individuals from Pre-Production are required to also attend Production. Your duties will vary but can include coaching, training and orienting attendees for the production event. So, registering for Pre-Production means you are automatically enrolled for Production in March 2019. The fee covers both events.

Our central goal -in addition to putting out a lot of product- is to resolve existing issues from Fall 2018 as well as pressure testing product features, the sewing process, and hopefully, trialing the set up of a lean sewing cell with one piece flow to see if it is feasible for production in March 2019.  In detail:

  • Plan a production run of TNR-TC (TNR Trap Covers) for both light and heavy weather. 
  • Test TNR-TC design features to ensure they meet specific criteria such as wind resistance and permeability.  
  • Test TNR-TC engineering to ensure the product can be made as cost and time effectively as possible.
  • Test and refine the skills assessment database for sewing operators; a tool I developed to train people in a quick and efficient manner.
  • Learn to use a new decision matrix to remove the natural bias of one’s preferences to avoid what can amount to pre-determined outcomes.
  • Create an industrial engineering work study to determine the number of operations, sewing time per operation and type of equipment will we need.
  • Develop sewing instructions to a granular level never before seen in the apparel industry.  We’ll need someone with strong illustration skills to do this properly.
  • Learn to measure SAM (Standard Allowable Minutes aka sewing time) takt time, and or cycle time to refine the order of operations, and to eliminate or reduce error while getting faster results.
  • Learn how to analyze the sewing process to discover bottlenecks well before they happen, and how to modify production to resolve them without increasing costs. 
  • Assist with cut order planning (calculating yields), subsequent sourcing variables and plans for a master schedule for the event.
Katherine, sewing a TNR cover

Production Activities 
March 22-25, 2019 7:30 AM -5:00 PM (7AM on the 22nd)

Attendees will assist with:

  • Training and learning to train sewing operators
  • Practice by work samples used in the process.
  • Sewing and trimming
  • Troubleshooting and problem solving
  • Finishing and quality control
  • Preparing for order fulfillment and pick up.

There are opportunities for people who want to arrive early. Specifically, we always need help with the following:

  • Last minute cleaning and organization of the facility
  • Assisting with spreading and cutting fabric (March 21)
  • Those who come early will get to watch marker making and related tasks (March 20, 2019).
Sue and Jen, overseeing our first run of TNR trap covers in 2016.

Registration and Event Details:

Event Address: 410 Old Coors Dr SW, Albuquerque NM 87121
Contact us at (505) 877-1713 or by email.
Go to the Registration Form

Qualifications and experience required:: None. That’s right, no experience required. There is no trick to being successful if we’re staffed by people who already have skills and experience. The amazing part of what we do is training unskilled and inexperienced people. We have successfully, and repeatedly trained people who have never sewn in their lives. I can’t say this more simply but your experience or lack of it will not affect your acceptance. However, overstating your experience and qualifications can count against you. Read the questions carefully to make sure your responses don’t lend the impression of embellishment. We do need an accurate picture of applicants so we can plan staffing and training.

All that said, there is one exception for this Spring 2019 Pre-Production event. We need at least one person with solid technical illustration skills. If this describes you, you’ll be contacted for a phone interview and set aside from the lottery. A demonstration or work try out will be necessary but it won’t be anything that exceeds accepted norms of professional competency. I regret the necessity of confirmation but I’ve taken someone’s word for it before and regretted it. Now, if you’ve read all this, I’m also looking for someone with solid social media skills who can share our progress as we go along because many people are curious and I don’t have time to share photos and updates. I don’t want to highlight the latter as we’d be bombarded with applicants but the need is there. You’ll have an opportunity to explain that on the registration form and if you worry it may be overlooked, can call or phone directly. 

Rhonda, our TNR supervisor.

Registration by Lottery: Since the boot camps have filled so quickly (less than an hour), we use a lottery to process applications with a 2 week registration period, lasting from Monday October 15, 2018 to Sunday October 28, 2018. On October 29th, we draw names out of the proverbial hat and will notify everyone of their status on October 30, 2018. If you haven’t heard from us by 5 PM on October 30th, get in touch as soon as it is convenient. Once notified, you’ll need to pay the $50 deposit by November 2, 2018 (3 days). If the deposit isn’t paid by then, we pull the next name on the list.   

Registration Fees:
All: $50 deposit by November 2, 2018 (3 days).
Pre-Production: $500. Balance due December 7, 2018
Production: $350. Balance due February 8, 2019 
Catered lunch: $80 (4 days x $20)

We charge a nominal fee to cover some of the event expenses (the actual cost to my business including planning, equipment and work stoppage is about $500 per person over and above this fee). As a charitable organization, your fee, less the cost of food, is tax deductible in the USA (and any  additional donation is deeply appreciated). As noted above, should you win a slot in the lottery, you will be sent an invoice on October 30th, and a $50 deposit to hold your spot is due by Friday, November 2nd. Slots for which deposits have not been paid by that date will be offered to the next person on the waiting list. Please note there is no catered lunch option for Pre-Production and that the fee for Pre-Pro includes Production.

Availability: There are 10 openings for Pre-production and an additional 15 slots for the Production event itself. The people selected for Pre-Production must attend the Production event in March so there are a total of 25 staffing positions.  If you somehow missed it, here’s the link to the Registration Form




As a registered 501c3, we welcome your financial support. Thank you!

In closing, my personal experience on the TNR program: (you can skip this)

I am a caretaker of two colonies, one behind the factory and another about half a mile away. Caretaking means I feed and water them daily, monitor the health of individual cats to prevent the spread of disease and lastly, I trap twice a year. Or did. When I first started trapping at the factory, I caught 7 cats. One was a lost cat who’d taken up with the colony and with his chip, his owner was found (who relinquished him; “Diego” was re-homed with a pattern maker colleague who eventually ended up with 2 of my rescues). Three years later, my factory colony is down to 2 cats.

My favorite feral from my large colony. She disappeared about a year ago. I still hope to see her again, maybe somebody adopted her. The one behind her is still around. 

My other colony down the street was quite large, maybe 30 cats or so. I trap twice a year there and in the time I’ve been doing it, the colony has shrunk by at least 30%. Again, some of the cats I trapped were strays, not ferals, and placed in homes happy to have them. Best of all, I haven’t seen any kittens in over a year. I’ve removed sick cats for treatment and fostered to ensure the cats didn’t have something communicable because family cats will hang around feeding stations and get sick too. TNR helps keep all neighborhood cats, feral, stray or owned, and their owners families, healthier.

To address the repeated comments from people who say they can’t come because they are allergic to cats and somehow imagine that my factory is crawling with them — these cats are wild, they’re not strays, there is a big difference. You will probably never see one outside, much less in the factory. Sighting one of the factory ferals is such a rare event that staff and visitors are excited to finally see one. The closest that the ferals will let me get is about 10 feet — and I’ve been feeding them every day for more than three years. So, no cats in the factory.