Reading List

The reading list for Spring 2019 is a departure so if you’d read it before, there are a few additions (but more subtractions). The original list has been pushed down the page as we may need it in the future.

Pre-production people have additional assigned reading -a whole book- but production people are encouraged to read it too. Initially I’d intended to assign Training Within Industry: The Foundation of Lean but then decided that I wanted to consider The TWI Facilitator’s Guide: How to Use the TWI Programs Successfully. I apologize for the delay in making that decision, I should have realized how ambivalent I was. Please understand that I don’t want to waste your time and want to select the best material. I will update this page with the title we’ve chosen on Monday November 5, 2018. You will also be notified by email.

Note that pages from The Entrepreneur’s Guide to Sewn Product Manufacturing are abbreviated “EGTSPM”.

Required reading:
Everyone should do things my way
Standard work
Better sewing quality with work instructions
The rules on seam allowances
A refresher on basic industrial sewing concepts
Deconstructing a [home] sewing class You can skip to “work arounds”, listed in bold.
Beginner’s guide to sewing with industrial machines
Beginner’s guide to sewing with industrial machines pt. 2
EGTSPM pp: 125-128 Production Sewing 101
EGTSPM pp:129-132 Industrial Sewing Theory
Batch, UPS and Modular batch pt.1
Batch, UPS and Modular batch pt.2 
How to sew faster pt.3
Industrial sewing instructions pt.2
Training sewing operators pt.2
What is Kaizen? Incremental and small changes that have dramatic effects.
The Crisis of Kaizen  How saving my employer 25% of a style’s labor cost -which also delighted the stitchers- created downstream problems we never saw coming. With any luck we’ll have the same problems during Spring 2019 (there is a happy ending).

Things I’d like for you to read but are not required:
Natural Capitalism, Chapter 7: Muda, Service, and Flow
Problems in problem prevention
Becoming a lean manufacturer

You may find this interesting: A report from the National Academy of Sciences entitled U.S. Industry in 2000: Studies in Competitive Performance. Specifically see the chapter on apparel manufacturing. It’s a broad sweep but you’ll learn the historic and endemic weaknesses that are inherent to the infrastructure of the industry. We can’t fix anything until we compare the odd variables of our business to how everybody else does things. Speaking of, it will also lead you to understand why other classes of manufacturing consider apparel people to be somewhat dimwitted -in part because they don’t fully appreciate the complex variables we face that they don’t.

===============End Spring 2019 Reading List=================







This is long so I’ve done my best to break up topics based on your interests and type of participation. For example, if you’re interested in sewing only, then you’d read the posts listed under “If you read nothing else, please read these”. For your convenience, pages open in a new tab. Pages from The Entrepreneur’s Guide to Sewn Product Manufacturing are abbreviated “EGTSPM”. Happy reading. And sewing.

If you read nothing else, please read these:

Everyone should do things my way
Standard work
Better sewing quality with work instructions
The rules on seam allowances
The rules on seam allowances pt.2
To pin or not to pin
A refresher on basic industrial sewing concepts
Deconstructing a [home] sewing class
Beginner’s guide to sewing with industrial machines
Interfacing: 10 tips
What is shade marking?
What is cuttable width?
Beginner’s guide to sewing with industrial machines pt. 2
Tutorial: Centered zipper construction Most of our zippers will finish the same as this tutorial explains, top & bottom.
EGTSPM pp: 65-66 Do you need a pattern maker?
EGTSPM pp: 125 Production Sewing 101
EGTSPM pp: 126-128 Production Sewing 101
EGTSPM pp:129-132 Industrial Sewing Theory

Batch, UPS and Modular batch pt.1
Batch, UPS and Modular batch pt.2 

 

 

At the intersection of pattern design and painless sewing

Designers must know: Seam allowances and specifications
Video: how to walk a pattern
How to walk a pattern pt.2
Checking a pattern pt.2
How many notches are too many?
How many notches are too many? pt.2
Pop Quiz: Notching challenge
Pop Quiz: Notching challenge pt.2
Lazy pattern making
Where is ease permissible
Where is ease permissible pt.2

Managing cutting & bundling for efficient sewing

Batch, UPS and Modular batch pt.1
Batch, UPS and Modular batch pt.2
Style 22692: Bundling & Bagging
EGTSPM pp: 114-120

Perhaps of interest:

For the most part, we’ll be using these instructions to sew the bomber jacket. One may decide to purchase it beforehand for an overview of all of the sewing processes we’ll follow.
How to sew faster pt.3
Industrial sewing instructions
Industrial sewing instructions pt.2
Training green sewing operators
Training sewing operators pt.2
EGTSPM pp:176-180 Production Pattern Making 101
To familiarize with the machines and equipment in the factory, see this and scroll down.

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